NMA TRAINING

Mountaineering Training

Brief History and Structures of Mountaineering Trainings.
Provided by Nepal Mountaineering Association.

Mountaineering History in Nepal
History shows that the British Mount Everest Reconnaissance Expedition had the 1st attempt to climb Mt. Everest in 1921AD. But, only after 1950, some successful summits are recorded.

The Sherpas have been directly involved in mountain climbing activities since centuries. All the foreigners who have made successful summits at different heights of Nepalese mountains are directly or indirectly supported by the Nepalese Sherpas. Due to the Sherpas' invaluable and continuous contributions in this regard, the name 'Sherpa' is valued as a 'Qualification' or 'Designation' in Mountain Climbing Profession in Nepal. Now, even if some person from other ethic group has the capacity to lead the expedition, she/he will be dignified as 'Sherpa'.

It was June 3, 1950 when Morris Herzog and Luis Lachine the French mountaineers, successfully climbed Mt. Annapurna -1, thus starting history of summit above 8000 meter in Nepal. This success story supported for rapid increase in Mountain climbing in Nepal. 1950-1960 is regarded as the golden age of Mountain climbing in Nepal. Great history was written in May 29, 1953 by Mr. Tenzing Norge and Sir Edmund Hillary by successfully climbing Mt. Everest, 8,848 M; top of the planet earth. This global message promoted the mountaineering activities in Nepal.

Following is the successful expedition records of the 14 mountain peaks above 8,000.M.:

SN	Name	Country	Altitude(m)
1	Mt. Everest	Nepal	8848
2	Kanchenjungha	Nepal	8586
3	Lhotse	Nepal	8516
4	Yalung Khang	Nepal	8505
5	Kanchenjungha South	Nepal-India Border	8476
6	Kanchenjungha Central	Nepal	8476
7	Makalu	Nepal	8463
8	Lhotse Middle	Nepal-China Border	8413
9	Lhotse Sar	Nepal-China Border	8400
10	Cho-Oyu	Nepal	8201
11	Dhaulagiri I	Nepal	8167
12	Manaslu	Nepal	8163
13	Annapurna I	Nepal	8091
14	Yalung Khang West	Nepal	8077

Establishment of Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA).

As the Mountaineering activities grew, it was necessary to protect, preserve the mountain environment and communities as well as promote mountaineering tourism by developing certain policies and regulations. With the objectives to address such issues NMA was formed and registered with the government of Nepal as a non-profit organization in November 1, 1973.

History of Mountaineering Training

Mountain climbing always bears high risks. Without the support of highly skilled and experienced support staffs/Sherpas, mountain climbing is almost impossible. So, to promote mountain climbing activities with higher safety, production of skill human resource was the 1st condition. Based on this reality, Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) started Basic Mountaineering Training (BMT) with 20 trainees in 1979 in cooperation with Yugoslavia Alpine Club. Only after 2000 Ad, Nepalese instructors have been conducting the trainings independently. By now, Nepal stands in second position (preceded by Japan) in producing international standard mountain guides (affiliated with International Federation of Mountain Guide Association(IFMGA)). NMA has produced 60 International Mountain Guides till now. Until 2017, NMA provided BMT for 1,304 individuals and Advance Mountaineering Training (AMT) for 392 individuals. Now, NMA provides BMT in Every July and AMT in every November.

BMT produces skilled supporters who engage in lower altitude climbing, supporting the climbers and minimizing different kinds of risks. AMT produces skilled supporters who engage in high altitude climbing regions thus supporting the climbers, minimizing different types of risks. AMT trained professionals are capable of leading any type of national and international expedition group. BMT trained professionals can be involved as support staffs in the expeditions lead by the AMT graduates.

Apart from BMT and AMT, NMA provides following trainings:

Introductory Rock Climbing Course
Level-1 Rock Climbing Course
Pre- Basic Mountaineering Course
High Mountain Rescue Training (HMRT)
Female Outdoor Leadership Training
Instructors' Upgrade Refreshment Course
Mountain Leader Course
Aspirant Guide Course
Mountain Guide Training
Ice Climbing Training, Level-1
Wilderness 1st Aid, high altitude sickness training
Hill walking & Mountain Navigation Course
Environment Awareness Training (EAT)

Significance of Mountaineering Training in Nepal

Nepal is a mountainous country, which has 8 of the 14 peaks above 8,000 meters high (now identified 6 more peaks above 8,000m in Nepal). Nepal has 1,310 peaks above 6,000. M. This means Nepal is the center of mountain climbing adventure in the world. This is a huge strength for Nepal to promote mountain climbing tourism, which earns high revenues for nation. However, to promote climbing, it is essential to produce skilled human resource who support the climbers for safety and successful ascent. This is why NMA is providing mountaineering training to more and more Nepalese youths. These trained mountaineers are the backbone of the successful mountain climbing tourism.

Most notable result is seen that NMA trained high skill mountain guides have been used in different emergency rescue programs; which have been effective to minimize casualties.

Objectives of Mountaineering Training:

To produce skilled supporters and leaders in national and international mountaineering activities
To promote mountaineering tourism
To minimize risks in mountaineering
To prepare human resource for immediate search and rescue activities
To create job opportunity for the Nepalese youths in mountaineering sector
To educate climbers regarding mountain environment and overall mountain issues.

About Basic Mountaineering Training (BMT) and Advance Mountaineering Training (AMT) by Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA)

Course content

Theoretical Learning:

Rules and regulation of trekking and mountaineering
Equipment familiarization
Mountain history
Mountain geography
Mountain terminology
Camping and bivouacking
Environment
High altitude awareness
Danger in mountain
Avalanche

Practical Learning:

Rock craft
Knots
Coiling
Improvise harness
Self rescue
Active rappelling with auto block
Camp set up and bivouacking
Hill waking technique
Scrambling on rock terrain
Moving on a fix line (rocky terrain)
Lowering
Anchor
Walking technique on ice and glacier
Glacier
Running belay on icy terrain
Pulley system (simple pulley, z pulley)
Top rope glacier ice climbing
Camping on glacier
High altitude cooking
Probing
Tansceiver single victim search
Navigation

Mandatory Requirements to enter BMT:

Photo copy of Citizenship
Recommendation letter certifying 2 year experience from trekking agency registered at NMA since 2 year (for Nepalese) - only one participant from one trekking agency
Clear photo of successful ascent of any mountain or trekking pass or snowline
Basic First Aid Course ( 18 hours / 3 days)
Introductory Rock Climbing Course ( 42 hours / 7 days)

Note: For Foreign Nationals, 3 days' introductory rock climbing courses will be provided in Nepal just before the Basic Mountaineering Training.

Time Credit:

180 hr. ( 30 days ) of core training
Total 35 days including travel, pre-test, major exam and result preparation.
Interviews starts: 8 June (for Nepalese)
Training starts: 12 June (for all)

Training Fees:

Fees for Basic Mountaineering Training for is USD 3,000.00 for one participant.

* For Nepalese participants, NMA will subsidies most of the cost; so that only NRs. 15,000.(Fifteen thousands rupees) will be charged for Nepalese. This does not include insurance cost. Participant must ensure Accident (above 10,00,000), Medical (Minimum 2,00,000) and Evacuation (equal to 5,000 USD).

* For Foreign Participants, USD 3,000.00 (Three thousand US$). For itineraries, activities and facilities information for foreign Participants should follow the following information table:

SN	Dates	Location	Activity	NMA bears the following cost	Participants should bear the following cost
1	8 June- 16 June	Kathmandu	Arrival- 8 June, Rock Craft Training - 9,10 & 11 June	Hotel, accommodation with Bed & Breakfast; twin-sharing	Lunch, Dinner and other self expenses
2	17 June- 10 July	Manang	Practical Training/field activities	Total cost including food accommodation, transportation, national park fees	Personal gears; Travel insurances (up to 19,000 ft.), evacuation, and medical insurance.
3	10 July (one night)	Kathmandu	rest	Twin sharing room with Bed & Breakfast	Dinner, and other self expenses.

Payment:
Minimum 50% of the fees must be deposited in NMA's Bank account mentioned below to confirm registration:

Bank Transfer Account Number :
Bank : Nepal Investment Bank, Durbarmarg Branch
Account No. : 00101010027422
Swift code : NIBLNPKT
Beneficiary : Nepal Mountaineering Association

Nepal Himal Peak Profile

Discover the information about mountains in Nepal.

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